09: Comfort (Meatballs)
We're all seeking it right now.
I’m fresh off a week in Sri Lanka, where I couldn’t get enough coconut sambal; the passionfruit, pineapple, and rambutan were dazzling; and the King coconut water was unbelievably delicious. I was there for work—getting an up-close look at the process of making organic latex Earthfoam mattresses, which was fascinating—but I slipped away in Colombo to visit architect Geoffrey Bawa’s home. It’s in the middle of the city, adjacent to the local university, and tucked away at the end of a narrow cul-de-sac. A towering frangipani tree is planted out front, next to the entry.
The interiors are remarkable: unmistakably Sri Lankan with an emphasis on indoor-outdoor living, smooth white walls, and breezy fabrics. Paintings, batik, and drawings from friends covered the walls, and the furnishings were eclectic in their time period and style (very contemporary in the mix and match). While it felt distinctly of its place, I couldn’t help but think of the expansion and contraction in Frank Lloyd Wright’s homes while walking through the Bawa residence. It was inviting and warm—and you can even stay there if you’d like (be forewarned: there’s a year-long waitlist).
A few January bits below, properly comforting.
Something I Cooked Last Month (More Than Once)
Meatballs. I’ve mixed many, but I always come back to the raisin- and pine nut-studded ones from Frankie’s 457 Spuntino. That cookbook was published 15 years ago, and it’s probably one of my kitchen’s most-used tomes. The gnocchi is pillowy every time, Caesar dressing is always in the fridge, the broccoli rabe has inspired numerous dishes, and I’ve even used the ricotta cheesecake as a blueprint for a version that’s spiked with amaro. The fennel salad may taste better at the bar, and the prunes (trust me) and mascarpone make a perfect dessert that I wouldn’t dare try to recreate. But the all-beef meatballs are restaurant-quality at home.
I, of course, make my own little tweaks because I’m me, and I also don’t usually have a half-loaf of white bread lying around. I often use panko bread crumbs in its place, and that works just fine. I like the flavor of golden raisins more than regular ones, too, so those will go in. And I’ve found myself fancying the simple Calabrian sauce from Anna Francese Gass for serving, made with Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes. After I bake the meatballs through, they get tossed with the sauce and set right on the table, either with bread or over the top of homemade spaghetti.
Please buy this cookbook, and not just because the recipes are expertly adapted—it’s quite pretty on the shelf, too.
Living In This
I haven’t taken this &Daughter sweater off since scooping it up in November for my birthday. It’s slouchy, ultra soft, and feels like it’ll last forever.
On Repeat
One Last Thought
I interviewed R+D Lab co-founder Jay Vosoghi a few weeks ago, and we spoke at length about how modern Milanese architecture doesn’t flaunt itself for all to see. That is no more present than in Asnago Vender’s buildings, one of which he lives in. The interiors (and his lighting collection) are elegant and envy-inducing, and you’ll just have to wait to see them.
Until then, here’s a 2014 book I started reading on the firm’s contributions to Milan’s post-war cityscape, which haven’t been as celebrated as their contemporaries like Piero Portaluppi and Gio Ponti.
